Table of Contents
Intro
A Brief History of Surf Wax
What Surf Wax Actually Does
Why Choose Wax Over Traction Pads
Types of Surf Wax
How Often Should You Wax Your Board
How to Wax a Surfboard
Wax Application Technique
Common Waxing Mistakes
Environmental Factors: Sand and Sun
How Much of the Board to Wax
Wax Maintenance and Seasonal Changes
My Favorite Wax
Softboards and Alternative Approaches
Wax On, Wax Right
Intro
Most surf websites will tell you that waxing a surfboard is about grip and traction. While that's technically true, it misses the deeper cultural and practical realities of why we wax our boards and how to do it properly. The simple truth is this: you'll slide right off if you don't wax your board. But there's more to it than just staying on—proper waxing is a rite of initiation into surfing culture, and getting it wrong signals to everyone in the lineup that you don't know what you're doing.
A Brief History of Surf Wax
Surfers haven't always waxed their boards. The ancient Hawaiians wouldn't have used wax—it's part of the post-industrial, modern rise in surfing culture in the 20th century. What we now consider an essential part of surfboard preparation is actually a relatively recent innovation that emerged as surfboard materials and manufacturing evolved. Each wax company has their own particular formula, most of them kept relatively secret. The chemistry has become quite sophisticated, but the basic principle remains the same: create a textured surface that provides grip when wet.
What Surf Wax Actually Does
What surf wax actually does: creates grip so you don't slip. That's it. But understanding why surfers wax their boards goes beyond just the basic function. You wax the top of your board, not the bottom. This isn't about creating glide on the bottom of your board—it's about creating traction on the deck for both paddling and riding, regardless of how you happen to be surfing. As people know about me, while I understand that most people start surfing to stand up and ride on their feet, I believe there are many different ways to have fun on a surfboard—prone, kneeling, even headstands. I truly believe that if you can't ride prone (on your belly), controlling the tail of the board, it's not fair to say that "you surf."
Modern polyurethane and epoxy boards need some sort of traction to function. For traction, there are two main options: wax and grip/traction pads.
Why Choose Wax Over Traction Pads?
Traction pads might seem attractive, and there are many reasons to consider them (which I'll cover in a future post). But the main reasons you'd choose wax over grip are:
Aesthetics - It smells good and has a classic or "core" vibe
Ritual element - The meditative process of preparing your board
Social acceptance - People might accept you easier if you demonstrate that you can wax your board properly
Grip tends to be associated with lazy old men on modern longboards and rad rippers on shortboards (diametric opposites, I know, but it's true). It's important to learn to wax your board as a rite of initiation into surfing culture. We do have norms that we observe. Why be normative? Why observe norms? Look, surfing is hard enough—you don't need to have a harder time socially, especially when all it takes to "fit in" is learning some basic things like how to paddle and wax your board. Not doing so is disrespectful of the culture and ignorant. And this is an ignorance that's easy to avoid!
Types of Surf Wax
Basecoat vs. Topcoat: Understanding the System
Basecoat is the hardest wax formulation, designed to create the foundation layer that everything else adheres to. It bonds directly to your board's surface and provides structure for subsequent applications.
Topcoat (or surf wax) is softer and designed to build up those crucial grippy beads that provide traction.
Temperature-Specific Waxes: Why Using the Right One Matters
Wax manufacturers formulate their products for specific water temperature ranges, and using the wrong temperature wax can ruin your session:
Cold water wax (below 58°F): Stays soft and grippy in cold conditions
Cool water wax (58-68°F): Medium hardness for transitional seasons
Warm water wax (68-78°F): Harder formulation that won't melt off
Tropical wax (above 78°F): Hardest formulation for hot water and air
The principle is simple: wax is harder for warmer water so it doesn't melt. Using cold water wax in warm conditions creates a melting mess, while using tropical wax in cold water becomes rock-hard and slippery.
How Often Should You Wax Your Board?
One of my students, Su Hawn, once asked me what I now call one of his "basic questions that aren't actually stupid": "Do you wax your board every time you surf?" The answer is yes, I wax my board before every single surf. But there's nuance here. It's more important in very hot and very cold climates—the extremes. In very hot climates, the wax (no matter how hard) melts off when you surf and the board becomes slippery. In Costa Rica, I often have to wax between surfs, so if I'm surfing 2-3 times a day, I'm waxing 2-3 times a day. In very cold climates, the wax gets harder from freezing and becomes slippery. You're saved a bit by booties and gloves, but slipping on the board can still ruin a wave or even a season. I once sprained my MCL when my front foot slid off the board during a cutback—and yeah, I didn't wax before that session, so even I have made those mistakes.
How to Wax a Surfboard
Clean the board (if used): If you're waxing a used board, remove old wax completely using a wax comb and wax remover. Don't attempt to wax over old, dirty wax. If you have a new board, no cleaning is needed—you can start fresh.
Apply basecoat: Create an even foundational layer using circular motions.
Apply topcoat: Build up grippy beads using your temperature-appropriate wax.
Maintain topcoat: Before each session, freshen the texture and add thin layers as needed.
This is a brief overview—I'll be covering the complete step-by-step technique in a dedicated article.
Wax Application Technique
How you wax is somewhat personal. The way I prefer—large circles—is "old school." I never do any sort of cross-hatching or square shapes when I'm waxing a board. This is personal and based on my relationship to waxing that was instituted by my dad when I was a grom. The key is not pressing too hard—this will smear the wax. We don't smear it, we apply it. The large circular motions should create that distinctive sound that will signal to anyone within earshot that you know what you're doing. Cross-hatching does work, and I recommend it as a starter to get the wax to go on, then go in larger circles to create the bead after that. The goal is creating those hard, round bumps that provide traction beyond just being sticky.
A note about cross-hatching and elaborate designs: These can signal you out as a kook. If you want to stay culturally secure, go with the beads and larger circles. The sound alone—that distinctive scraping rhythm of proper circular waxing—will scream, "This person is a surfer."
How Much of the Board to Wax?
This depends on whether you're doing airs or nose riding. If you're doing airs, you don't need this guide. If you're nose riding, you don't need this guide. If you're a newbie, you're probably on a hybrid, fun board, or longboard. You either wax all the way up to the nose (just in case you magically get yourself up there) or you wax 3/4 of the way up. Functionally, you only need the latter, but aesthetically, if you have a longboard, it looks weird if you don't wax all the way to the nose.
Wax Maintenance and Seasonal Changes
I personally only change my wax 1-2 times a year for temperature purposes. If you like things super clean or are a neat freak, you may want to do this more often.
Wax combs: I personally never use the "comb" part. For me, they're for desperate moments when you don't have any wax but need the surface to get more grip. You cross-hatch your old wax with the comb to give it added traction. Otherwise, you mostly use the scraper side to remove old wax.
Common Waxing Mistakes
Not waxing all the way to the rails: You don't wax over the rails, just right up to them. Your hands go there during paddling and popups, and you don't want them to slip.
Waxing past the leash plug: There's no way you're surfing that far back on the tail. The leash plug is placed as far back as it can go, so you shouldn't be standing on it. It's the "stop zone" for waxing.
Showing up with no wax at all: This is so obvious it shouldn't need saying, but I've seen people I don't coach come to sessions with completely unwaxed boards.
Using the wrong temperature wax: Match your wax to actual water conditions, not what's convenient or available.
Waxing after you surf: No one does this. Wax before your session, not after.
Republican wax jobs: Never wax the bottom of your board. If you get wax on the bottom, I call this a "republican wax job" because republicans do everything wrong (at least in America). You can remove bottom wax with a Pickle wax remover or scraping tool.
Waxing on rocks or pebbles: Do not put your board down where there are pebbles or rocks to wax it. You'll ding the bottom. I've seen this mistake made too! Wax on a towel, on your quads, on a soft bag, or in the sand wax-up. My recommendation is to head into the surf with your board already waxed in the parking lot. It's perfectly fine (and normal) to do your first base coat at home.
Environmental Factors: Sand and Sun
SAND: Having sand in your wax makes it impossible or difficult to get the wax on the board. Don't drop your wax in the sand! And don't take your board home with sand all over it. Don't place the board wax-down in the sand BEFORE you wax it (okay to place it wax-down afterwards). You can rinse the sand off in the inside whitewater as you're paddling out. Make sure to rinse the board off in the inside whitewater before you head back to your car/locker/the subway too. Salt water won't hurt your board, but sand in the wax is a mess. Avoid at all costs.
THE SUN: Wax of all temperatures melts. Do not leave your board wax-up on the beach, in your car, or anywhere with direct access to the sun. This is actually a HUGE mistake I see people make. They put their board wax-up on the beach, go buy a coconut, and the wax has melted all the way off, dripping over the rails. NO bueno. What if your board gets hot in the car during transportation and the wax is too soft, or the wax bar itself gets too hot? Go dip either or both in the water so they harden up. Then commence your wax job.
My Favorite Wax
After years of testing different brands and formulations, I have strong preferences when it comes to wax selection. The brand, texture, and performance characteristics all matter when you're waxing before every single surf session. For a detailed breakdown of why I choose the wax I do and how different brands compare, check out my complete wax review above.
Softboards and Alternative Approaches
Many softboards come with textured deck surfaces designed to provide grip. I personally don't wax them, though some people do. Again, a lot about wax is personal preference and depends on your specific board and surfing style.
Wax On, Wax Right
Waxing your surfboard correctly is simple in concept but crucial in execution. You need traction to stay on your board, period. But beyond the functional necessity, proper waxing demonstrates respect for surfing culture and helps you integrate into the lineup more smoothly. Learn to do it right, do it consistently, and you'll surf with more confidence and cultural awareness. Skip it or half-ass it, and you'll struggle both functionally and socially in ways that are completely avoidable.
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