Every week, I watch talented people struggle in the lineup—not because they lack ability, but because they’ve been fed a steady diet of surfing misinformation. After coaching hundreds of students from complete beginners to advanced intermediates, I’ve identified the core myths that create more problems than they solve.
Most surf education focuses on getting people standing quickly using shortcuts that actually slow long-term progression. The real issue? A fundamental misunderstanding of what surfing actually is. Let’s bust the myths that keep you spinning your wheels and reveal what creates genuine progression in the water.
Myth #1: Surfing is about standing up on a surfboard
The foundational category error that creates all other problems. Surfing is actually about wave reading, ocean knowledge, paddling, and board control. Standing up is just a bonus that emerges naturally from these real skills. Plus, there are many ways to ride a wave, on all sorts of crafts — standing is a great way to do it — it’s just not the only way — wave knowledge precedes all forms. Start with a basic forecasting course to lay the foundations.
Myth #2: You should move your back foot forward first when popping up
Zero professional surfers do this. This hack technique only works in slow, rolling waves and creates bad habits that fail in real surf conditions.
Myth #3: Smaller boards are easier to learn on
Choosing undersized boards for convenience actually makes learning harder by reducing flotation and paddle power when you need it most.
Myth #4: You should keep looking at the wave as it approaches you
You behold the wave as it comes toward you to judge timing and positioning, but as it nears you must turn with it and look down the line where you want to surf. Too many beginners keep staring at the heaving lip about to break on them instead of shifting their gaze to where they’re going. This causes mistimed takeoffs and prevents proper wave reading of what the wave is doing down the line.
Myth #5: Beginners need to be pushed into waves
This is ok if you’re a child or really don’t want to do any work, but it’s not necessary. If you’re capable of learning to paddle and control the board on your own, then you’re capable of catching your own waves from the very beginning.
Myth #6: You should initiate turns by swinging your arms and upper body
Proper turns start with the back foot reaching over the tail, then opening the front arm and looking back at the power source. Swinging creates uncontrolled, inefficient movements.
Myth #7: Board volume in liters is crucial for beginners
Liter obsession is for pros and their shapers. Beginners need float and stability and lots of it. Simple dimensions work: 7-9ft long, 20-23 inches wide, 2.5-3.5 inches thick. See my surfboard guide for beginners to learn more.
Myth #8: Beginners don’t deserve a “real board”
Many beginners assume they’re “not good enough” for custom work or quality equipment, but properly fitted boards actually accelerate progress significantly. You deserve equipment that helps rather than hinders your learning.
Myth #9: Beginner equals kook
This doesn’t have to be the case. You can learn good form from the beginning, set realistic goals, learn to communicate your inadequacies appropriately, and with patience work your way into any lineup respectfully. “Kook” is a word commonly used in surfing in a very negative manner to describe basically anyone who rubs you the wrong way. It’s best to not take it too seriously and realize that we’re all kooks from time to time (if you’re complaining about traffic, remember that you are the traffic).
Myth #10: You need marathon sessions every surf
Not really. Shorter, more focused sessions can yield optimal results. Yes, a surf binge is a fun thing to do, but it’s not necessary for progress and can actually lead to fatigue that impedes learning.
Conclusion
These myths persist because they promise quick results, but surfing isn’t a quick-result activity. It’s a lifelong practice of reading water, understanding energy, and moving in harmony with forces far greater than ourselves.
The good news? When you focus on the real fundamentals—wave reading, positioning, board control, and ocean knowledge—progress accelerates naturally. Standing up becomes inevitable rather than the primary struggle.
Start with Myth #1. Ask yourself: am I trying to learn surfing, or am I just trying to stand on a board? Your answer will determine everything that follows.