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Conatus Surf Club

  • About
  • SurfReady365
  • Retreats
  • Virtual Surf Coaching
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  • Contact
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Blog

What Surfing Really Looks Like Ep 5: Finding the Lip Line

June 9, 2024 Dion Mattison

In this video I go over how to position for waves by looking at the lip line. I was struck when I went over this footage about how well you can see the bend of the wave as it comes towards me. It crucial to note that I'm not just waiting for the wave to come towards me but figuring out where the best place for me to be vis a via the peak is. In some cases I move OUT TO SEA to meet the wave. In other cases I have to paddle deeper. And still in others I have to paddle to the shoulder. I don't get it right every time! But when I do I am rewarded. Another point and tip is that you can use GoPro footage like this to diagnose your own tube riding. The session I had after this I didn't film but made many more tubes both backside and frontside based upon my diagnoses from this footage. It's hard to find that balance between being too deep/too greedy and too shallow/not deep enough.

Shot in SW Costa Rica, August 2023 using a GoPro Hero Black 11

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