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Conatus Surf Club

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Blog

Phenomenology of Surfing: 3 Sessions, 1 Morning

March 7, 2021 Dion Mattison

Here’s a 10 minute video that documents the last morning in February surfing around the Rockaways. I was coaching Brant Weil who is figuring out how to ride his 6’6” CSC x Barahona Potentia shape. I’m riding the same shape, but in 6’1”. The video contains voiceovers and slow motion. I explain some of the things that I consider while I am surfing — both in terms of overall conditions and particular thoughts and considerations that I have and make while riding waves. The filming is done by CSC student Emory Lee. Emory alternated between their Canon and their iPhone. Surf filming is a great way to get better at surfing, and I mention this in the video. I will be doing more videos like this one, but I will also do some that get into one particular aspect, say wave judgment, or the take off. Not all of these will go public. The best way to ensure that you get all of the content is to sign up on our Patreon page. Right now Patreon subscribers get early access to all content. For example current subscribers have already seen this video. There are some cool perks over there, so check it out!

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