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Blog

The Day Before Summer

June 14, 2017 Dion Mattison
The Falcone 9'2" and a perfect peak. Photo: Juan Heredia 

The Falcone 9'2" and a perfect peak. Photo: Juan Heredia 

Beautiful Human Beings: Writing to share with you an amazing day we had before the summer beach season kicked into full effect on the East Coast. Friday, May 26, was the day before Memorial Day weekend, which marks the start of lifeguards, beach fees, restricted surfing zones, diminished swell, and mobs of people flocking East Coast beaches. The swell was pretty well hyped across the surf forecasting websites. Many people woke up early and surfed NY while the winds were favorably from the NW. We held back in Brooklyn while CSC crew filtered into our home base. When everyone was assembled we piled into the van and headed south across the Verrazano and Outer Bay Crossing bridges towards the plentiful peaks of northern NJ. The crew was Bryce Vaughan, Brendan Lynch, Bryan Doring, Christina Nizar, Helena Cortes, Juan Heredia, and me (Dion). We were also joined in NJ by Phil Tabuas and Brad Schiller.  

We hit a bit of traffic on the way down, but the vibes and conversations and music in the van were so good it seemed like a tiny hiccup. The waves that greeted us also justified our patience through the road work infested highways: it was chest to head high, offshore, perfect, and empty at the first place we checked. Following our "never leave waves" philosophy, we got our gear together, commandeered a lifeguard tower, and settled in for the day. In true Conatus fashion, Juan, Bryan, Helena, and I all took turns manning the handy Sony a6000, to document the whole epic affair. 

Lifeguard stand takeover! Left to right: Brendan, Juan, Dion, Christina, Phil, and Bryan. Photo: Helena Cortes. 

Lifeguard stand takeover! Left to right: Brendan, Juan, Dion, Christina, Phil, and Bryan. Photo: Helena Cortes. 

It was definitely a more advanced day. For this reason we only brought two students — Christina and Helena — who have proven that they are willing to push their limits in stuff with a bit more power (we have other students of this caliber, but they had to work :( . . . ). Conditions did prove to be challenging, but both of the women managed to bag a few gems. 

Christina paddling into a left. Photo: Dion Mattison 

Christina paddling into a left. Photo: Dion Mattison 

Helena on her best wave of the day. Photo: Dion Mattison 

Helena on her best wave of the day. Photo: Dion Mattison 

This all day surf was fueled by water and beach snacks. Big shout out to Helena for making tuna and egg empanadas. I brought hard boiled eggs, bbq peanuts, and bananas. Juan made a coffee run midday, just before we were hit with a small rain squall, which passed quickly, and made the light incredible. We kept pinching ourselves because no one else seemed to want to surf this beach. Perhaps it was so much better elsewhere, but it didn't matter to us. We had found a slice of heaven and were happy to stay there. Brendan was especially stoked because this was one week before he set off for a two month stint in Mexico City where he will be producing a body of art work for a show he has there in October. 

Brendan on one of many pristine lefts. Photo: Dion Mattison

Brendan on one of many pristine lefts. Photo: Dion Mattison

We left the beach at around 8p and took a bee line for Brooklyn. Then we had a pizza and video viewing party at Conatus HQ, where we were joined by Mariza Daras, Anya Ferring, and Kaitlin Ward. Truly an epic day. Enjoy more of the photos below. 

Excellence is concrete!!! Beautiful construction snap from traffic. Photo: Juan Heredia

Excellence is concrete!!! Beautiful construction snap from traffic. Photo: Juan Heredia

Van conversations never disappoint. Bryce, Christina, and Helena. Photo: Juan Heredia

Van conversations never disappoint. Bryce, Christina, and Helena. Photo: Juan Heredia

The face behind the epic voiceovers: Bryan Doring. Photo: Juan Heredia

The face behind the epic voiceovers: Bryan Doring. Photo: Juan Heredia

Dion laying into a bottom turn. Photo: Juan Heredia

Dion laying into a bottom turn. Photo: Juan Heredia

Fins and aesthetics matter.  Photo: Dion Mattison

Fins and aesthetics matter.  Photo: Dion Mattison

More lefts than usual in NJ. Photo: Dion Mattison

More lefts than usual in NJ. Photo: Dion Mattison

Women who charge: Helena Cortes in the foreground; Christina Nizar out the back. Photo: Dion Mattison

Women who charge: Helena Cortes in the foreground; Christina Nizar out the back. Photo: Dion Mattison

Juan Heredia high line speed master. Photo: Dion Mattison

Juan Heredia high line speed master. Photo: Dion Mattison

Helena, Brendan, and Phil down time. Photo: Juan Heredia

Helena, Brendan, and Phil down time. Photo: Juan Heredia

Back to the van for wax, water, and sunscreen. Photo: Helena Cortes

Back to the van for wax, water, and sunscreen. Photo: Helena Cortes

Bryce looking strong off the bottom. Photo: Dion Mattison

Bryce looking strong off the bottom. Photo: Dion Mattison

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