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Conatus Surf Club

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More waves, more joy

Conatus Surf Club

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Blog

So You Wanna Ride A Fish?! Episode 1: Fish History

July 11, 2024 Dion Mattison

Everyone seems fired up about “fish” surfboards these days. I mysellf am in love with them and have been riding them since I was a grom. In this video I go through some of the basic design details of fish surfboards and talk a little about their history. I mention the film “Fish: The Surfboard Documentary,” which you should watch if you want to get deeper into the subject: https://www.redbull.com/us-en/films/fish . I also mention how Australian Mark Richards won four world titles riding twin fins, which aren’t the same exact thing as a fish, except that often fish also have only two fins. The history of twin fins actually stretches further back in surfing history than the 1970s — back to the Bob Simmons in the 1950s. I don’t mention that in the video, but I shall have some more to say about it in future videos. This video is just meant to give a very, very basic overview.

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Wait For It! How to Do Roundhouse Cutbacks

July 9, 2024 Dion Mattison

Wait for it . . . ! In this video I go over how to do roundhouse cutbacks. I have spent a better part of my surf career working on this one maneuver. Truth be told, I still don’t feel I get enough rotation to clock the white water at a high enough spot! But I do have the cutting back part down. The biggest lesson? You have to out run sections that you’re excited to turn on in order to make enough space and get enough speed to properly cut back. The roundhouse cutback, while not scored super highly in surfing competition, is a staple of any solid surfing practice. You should be able to one of these on almost any surfboard before you even think about doing vertical turns. Remember that solid, fluid surfing is built first upon you horizontal and elliptical approach, and then you can think about hitting the lip. In my view, if you can’t do a proper roundhouse, you should not be trying to do vertical turns. Work on the fundamentals and the rest will follow.

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From the Vault: Halloween Surfs 2022

July 8, 2024 Dion Mattison

Some footage from Halloween 2022 when we had a nice pulse of waves here in Rockaway beach!

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Virtual Coaching vs In Water Coaching: Which Is Best For You?

July 3, 2024 Dion Mattison

In this video I go over which kind of coaching — virtual or in-water — might be the best fit for you. This is a hard one because the more coaching you get, the better that your surfing is going to be. So, both is the best! But what is most reasonable for you?

  1. In this day and age it’s a no brainer to get some kind of virtual coaching

  2. Virtual coaching is really great for intermediates and advanced surfers who want to break through plateaus

  3. In-water coaching is crucial when you need help with wave judgment and analysis of paddling form — it’s very important for the more beginner side of surfing, but is wave-dependent, budget-dependent, and requires more time and money

If you’re still unsure which is best, go ahead and book a free surf journey call with me and we can work it out together!

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Vegan Peanut Butter Pasta

July 2, 2024 Dion Mattison

I also call these “Surf Shred Noodles.” This is a super easy recipe that is guaranteed to keep you fueled for long surfs and feeling light wherever in the world you find yourself!

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Beginner 1.0-3.0: I Break Down The First Three Fundamental Levels

June 28, 2024 Dion Mattison

In this video I go over what I view to be the three main levels of beginner surfing. In these phases you’re not turning the board at all. Pay attention to videos that have to do with wave judgment and riding on your belly. Then focus on videos about the pop up.

Beginner 1.0 — 00:30-1:30. Literally you don’t anything about surfing for the most part. New to the culture. Maybe had 1-2 lessons on vacation. You don’t yet “speak the language” or “know how to play the game.”

Beginner 2.0 — 1:30-2:49. You have some “vocabulary.” You have a sense that surfing is for you. You can ride white waters on your belly. Just starting to think about catching green waters. Lots of pearling. Still really trying to learn wave judgment and direction. Make about 50% of take offs.

Beginner 3.0 — 2:49-5:00. Take offs are more consistent, but you’re still making crucial mistakes. May have bad habits from learning from a bad school or coach. These habits need to be fixed before you graduate from this phase. Making 60-70% of take offs. Learning different postures and ways of standing on the board.

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